Zoom Out

When you are filming your own hunts, the workload can get overwhelming.  Trying to frame up the deer perfectly is almost out of the question.  You can bet that as soon as you frame him up and you grab your bow/gun, he will move out of your shot.  So, when do have a deer providing a shot to you and you intend on taking them, here is the best method to capture it on film. 

1. Zoom the camera all the way out.  
2. Frame up your shot area (the area you can shoot your bow or gun).
3. Hit record and leave the camera alone. 
4. Take your shot.

Admittadly your video will not be a close up shot, but chances are you will get the hit on tape.  If you zoom in too far, you will most likely get half the deer and it will be the half without the arrow.  So, zoom out and capture the moment and don't worry about perfect video.  Some is better than none.

Until next time...I'm rolling.
Brian

Set Up Quickly

When you are self filming your hunts, get set quickly.  Many times, a buck may think the noise being made by you walking in to your stand is another deer.  So, while you are messing around with your gear, that buck will just appear to check you out.  Therefore, the first thing I do when I get in the tree is hook up my safety harness.  But the second thing is set up my Pro-Bow-Cam (camera arm) and my video camera.  This way, I am ready to roll if I get surprised by a nice buck.  Of course, the third thing I do is hoist my bow up and nock an arrow for the same reason as I mentioned above. 
Bottomline, get to your tree and get set up as quickly as possible because you never know who might show up to investigate you.

Until next time...I'm rolling!
Brian

Steady and Ready

What is the difference between professional looking video and amateur video?  Really, there can be quite a few tell tale signs, but the most obvious and the most common is shaky, jerky video.  When you are setting up a shot, slow down!  Many inexperienced photogs want to zoom in and out or pan left and right way too much.  When you zoom way in and then try to frame up your shot (especially on a moving object like a walking deer), your video will look "fast".  Instead, zoom out, slow your movements and breathe. 

When you are attempting to film a wild deer, turkey, elk, bear, etc, your heart is going to be pounding.  This is going to compound your shaky and "fast" camera movements.  Here is what I like to do when an animal presents itself to me while filming hunts:

1. Hit record.  Sounds obvious, but you would be amazed how many times people will go through the motions and forget to begin recording.  Or, worse yet, they double hit the record button.  This is where you hit the button to start recording, and in your excitement, you hit it a second time and stop the film without even realizing it.  Imagine double clicking your mouse.  Always look for the moving timecode or red record light in the viewfinder to be sure you are rolling.
2. Find your animal in the viewfinder with the camera zoomed out.  This is way easier than trying to find it with the camera zoomed in tight.  It is pretty tough to find an animal, especially when they are not moving and there are a lot of leaves on the trees, when the camera is in tight.
3. Once you see the animal in the viewfinder, zoom in all the way quickly and focus.  This can be done with the focus ring, or if your camera has it, but hitting the "auto" button and then releasing it back to manual focus.  This method is usually a lot quicker but you need to practice it so you can find the button by feel since you will be looking in the viewfinder, not at the camera housing.
4. Once focused, zoom out a bit and frame up your shot.
5. Now that the technical procedure is out of the way, you need to become rock solid.  Most of the time, all the video that is recorded during the focus and framing process will not be used, but once framed, treat your video as "live video".  This is where you want to be steady and smooth in your movements.  
6. When you pan or tilt to follow an animal, be slow.  Even if you accidentally allow the animal to leave the frame for a short time, it is better than jerking the camera too quickly.  
7. If the animal is standing still, even for just a short time, let go of your camera.  This is key!  as long as your tripod/camera arm head tension is set correctly, you should be able to let go of the camera and it will remain in position.  This takes all of your shaking movements away and will make your video look way more professional.

If you follow these steps and simply slow down and try to calm down, your video will be much less shaky and way more professional looking.  Your viewers will thank you and your memories will be much easier to watch!

Until next time...I'm Rolling!
Brian

Review Your Shot

One of my favorite benefits of filming my own hunts (or filming someone else's) would be that I can immediately review my shot placement on the animal right in my tree or blind.  Why does this matter?  Well, in the heat of the moment, it is very easy to be mistaken on where the arrow or bullet impacted your game.  However, if you rewind the tape, you should be able to verify the placement which will tell you when you should begin blood trailing the animal. 
There have been many times that the hunter has cheered that his shot was perfect.  Then they watch the tape and their joy turns a little less intense.  I have also seen this work in reverse as well.  I have taken shots and been unsure of my hit, but the tape has told the real story and all was good.
So, there is one more benefit to filming your own hunt.  Be sure to keep your lens clean, put the camera on a camera support like the Pro-Bow-Cam and hit record.  The results are awesome!

Until next time...I'm rolling!
Brian

Keep it Simple

Filming in a hunting situation is tough enough, don't make it harder by bringing every piece of gear you have.  Below is a list of basic, "must have" items that should be in your filming pack.  If you have these items, you really do not need anything else (usually).

1. Camera...duh
2. Camera arm (Pro-Bow-Cam is a good, inexpensive arm for a small camera)
3. Tape in camera and one or two extra.  Remember, take the second tape and remove the wrapper before you hit the woods.  This will cut down on sound and movement in the tree.
4. Back up camera battery
5. Wireless mics and batteries if you are using mics.
6. Lens cloth to wipe your lens...MUST HAVE!  Check your lens constantly, dust and dirt gets on there without you noticing.  Especially if you are in a farm area, blowing dust and debris is almost constant.
7. Rain protector.  This could be your extra rain poncho, custom camera rain cover or just a big zip-lok bag to cover the camera in a rain storm.  If it gets really bad, put the camera in your pack inside a plastic bag, don't risk it.
8. Electrical tape...like duct tape for camera geeks.  OK, Small amount of duct tape too.
9. Crescent (adjustable) wrench and small screwdrivers (phillips and flat)
10. Flashlight and extra battery

This should cover you in almost every shoot.  When you pack your bag and get ready to hump it across fields and through the woods, be sure you carry only the essential items.  Keep it simple and as light as possible and you will be much happier on your next shoot.

Until next time...I'm Rolling!
Brian

How to Properly Focus

This sounds simple and basic, but this is probably the one thing that all newcomers get wrong.  Here is the correct process to getting a good focus.

1. Zoom all the way in on your subject (the thing you want to be in focus)
2. Adjust the focus until it looks crisp.  Be sure to have the eyepiece/viewfinder adjusted to your eye first.
3. Zoom out and frame up your shot.  

This is the only method to insuring you have a good focus.  If you try to focus while zoomed out, it will never work.

Tip: If you know your subject (deer, turkey, elk, etc) will be in a certain place when you are filming them, you can focus on the area before they are there and you will be ready ahead of time.  However, you will need to be sure you are on manual focus otherwise when you move the camera, the auto focus will grab something else and change the focus and you just wasted your time.

10 Second Rule

There are a few things that aggravate an editor like not having enough time during a shot/take.  When you are filming, you need to think like an editor.  For example, your "good shot" does not start when you hit record, it begins once you focus, frame up the shot and steady the camera movement.  At that point, you begin to count to 10 (or watch the timecode counter in the viewfinder).  10 Seconds is a good rule of thumb for most shots.  A previous director of mine (Dan Keith-MidWest Outdoors TV) hammered this into my head and it has helped me dramatically.  Since I edit all my own video, I have seen the benefits of the 10-second rule time and time again.

By giving enough time, you are allowing the editor to have time to fade in, hold the shot for a few seconds and fade out.  Pay attention to actual time during your favorite hunting shows and you will see how time flies and you always could use more of a good shot.  Hold your "good shots" longer and your final videos will be much better!

Till next time...I'm rolling!
Brian

Film Your Bear Hunt

Bear from one of our Wisconsin trail cameras.

With Pine Ridge Archery President, Jim Broberg finally drawing a Wisconsin bear tag after 7 years of applying, I have had some familiar memories of my previous bear hunts come back up. 
There may not be a better game animal to film than bear.  Why? It is simple.  Most bear hunts happen over bait.  Of course this excludes spot and stalk and dog hunts.  When hunting over bait, your focus is pretty well concentrated over the bait area. Therefore, your camera can be set there as well.
When filming your own hunt (or even filming someone else) it is always a challenge to be set up with the camera pointed in the direction that the game will approach from.  In the wild, it is difficult to guess the exact location they will come from, but over bait, it is usually safe to bet that they will go to the bait once they arrive.
This is where your camera should be pointed while you wait.  When you film your hunts, your camera should be mounted on a camera support, like the Pro-Bow-Cam from Pine Ridge Archery so the shot is steady and if you are by yourself you can capture your shot on film without holding the camera. 
Now, once your bear arrives, your camera is already pointed in the direction of where you will shoot and all you have to do is hit record.  If you hunt bear over bait, you need to be filming your hunt.  Not only does it preserve the memory of the hunt, it will allow you to rewind the tape and review your shot placement on the bear before you track it.  It is a great feeling to capture the shot on video, and a bear hunt is a great one to find success with.

Till next time, I'm rolling!
Brian

Two's Company

Hunting is tough as it is, but double the amount of people in a tree (or blind) and you are asking for trouble.  If two people (1 hunter and 1 cameraman) head into the field without a clear understanding of the mission, you are asking for trouble.  When I go out on a shoot, I make sure that my hunter and I are on the same page and that both of our goals are in sync.  If something can go wrong...it will.  
When you are in the stand and the first shooter comes by and you are trying to position yourself and your camera for the shot, there is always a chance you could be busted and that hunt may be over.  Of course you should do everything in your power to get yourself in a position ahead of time so you can film in the direction you expect the game to come from with as little movement as possible.  However, this is real hunting, not a zoo.  The animals do not always follow the script and you are forced to re-adjust.  This is inevitably when an animal will catch your movement and that is it.  If you and your hunter have not discussed this possibility ahead of time, you can be sure you are not going to have a pleasant ride back to camp.

I always make sure that I inform my hunter of the possibility of the hunt getting screwed up in the process of getting the shot.  This is where you both need to decide what is more important.  If your hunter is just taking you along and the film is a bonus, you had better make darn sure you do not screw up their hunt.  If this is a "paid" hunt where an outfitter or lodge is looking for promotional benefits, your hunter better remember that.  Often times this means the hunt is comp'd (free) and without the camera, the hunter would not even be there.  So, be sure you both understand the priorities and your outcome will be much better.

I have made some great, lifelong friendships while filming people over the years.  It is amazing how spending a few days in a tree with someone will build such a bond.  Plus, the hours go a lot quicker when you have someone to spend the time with.  Really, it is one of those things that can't be explained, but I highly recommend it. 

Till next time...I'm Rolling!
Brian

Pre-Game Prep

Would you ever climb into your stand at the start of bow season if you did not shoot one practice arrow all year?  If not, why would you attempt to film a hunt without practicing with the camera, camera arm and gear first?  If something can go wrong, there are two times that it will; when it is pre-dawn and you are trying to be quiet and still in your treestand, or when a “shooter” works into your location.  Here are a few tips to help eliminate future problems.

1.    Use your gear ahead of time and all squeaks, creaks and malfunctions should be out of the way before the hunt.  Remember, cold conditions create issues that were not there in July.  Practice, practice, practice.

2.    Be sure to get your pack organized with what you need so you can find it by feel.  You want to be able to reach slowly and quietly into your pack and retrieve what you need without taking your eyes off of your area.  You can guarantee that when you are fumbling around in your pack, that is when a buck is going to appear and he will bust you.  If you can keep your eyes on the surrounding area and still reach for your gear, you will be less likely to be seen since you are aware of what is going on around you.  Plus, if you do not need a flashlight in pre-dawn settings, you will be less conspicuous.

3.    Preload your fresh batteries and tape before heading out.  This will save time and noise in the stand.  Plus, remove the wrapper from your second tape and label it.  This way, when you need it, you are not crinkling plastic wrap in the stand.  Most likely your tape #1 will run out with an animal in your area and you will need to be extra stealthy when you change tapes.  This will help.

4.    CLEAN YOUR LENS!  It never fails, no matter how careful you are, your lens will get wet, dusty, smudged, etc.  Keep a small bottle of lens cleaning solution and a cloth in your pocket and clean it often.

5.    Finally, keep essentials in your pockets.  Batteries, lens cloth, tape, etc are good to have at fingertips reach.  Your pockets provide for less movement than reaching a hanging pack and are good for many must have items.

Be prepared and have your gear in “stand-ready” condition so your first hunt is as successful as your last hunt of the season.

Till next time…I’m rolling!
Brian